This care guide lists many of the products we use at Ophidian Odyssey. We recommend these products as simple, low-cost solutions to provide everything your pet ball python needs. There are multiple care guides out there so we encourage you to do your research and find the solutions that work best for you. When in doubt, ask a reputable veterinarian that has experience with reptiles.
There are a lot of pros and cons (and some heated debates) about the types of enclosure to use for ball pythons. We'll keep is short: we recommend using plastic tubs over glass tanks because they are cost-effective, space-saving, provide more reliable heating, and consistent humidity. If you're keeping a large collection, a rack system may be your best option.
For smaller collections, latching lid storage tubs are perfect. A secure, locking lid is essential. Select one that's the right size for your animal, keeping in mind that ball pythons prefer to feel snug and secure. For tanks or tubs we recommend:
a 6 quart tub or 5-10 gallon tank for hatchlings,
a 15 quart tub or 20 gallon tank for juveniles, and
a 32 quart tub or 30 gallon tank for subadults.
Larger adults may need to be moved into a larger enclosure, such as a 60 quart tub or 40 gallon tank. If you use this size enclosure and the tub is not in a rack we recommended taking extra measure to secure the lid. Try using a bungee cord.
If using a tub be sure to drill or melt a number of holes in the side to allow your snake to breathe. You can do this without power tools using a craft or soldering iron. Whatever enclosure you use, ensure that it is free of sharp edge or points and has a securely fitted top or doors.
Do not cohabitate ball pythons! This can stress them out and they should only share the same enclosure when mating.
There is some debate here as well, but not as much. Continuous light (even infrared) can interfere with the circadian rhythm of ball pythons which are by nature nocturnal. Non-luminous heat sources are preferred for ball pythons, and are really your only option when using a tub. Belly heat is often supplied using heat tape or mats, the upside of which is that they use much less energy since no heat is wasted on visible light.
Heat tape or heat mats should be appropriately sized to cover one third of the bottom of the enclosure. We recommend:
a mini heat mat for 6 - 15 quart tubs or up to 5 gallon tanks,
a small heat mat for 32 quart tubs or up to 20 gallon tanks,
a medium heat mat for large tubs or up to 40 gallon tanks
If you remove the adhesive from the mat before applying it to the bottom of your enclosure, you can reuse or reposition the heat mat without damaging it. Simply affix the pad using aluminum tape. Position the heat mat all the way at one end. This will provide a warm and cool sides, or thermal gradient.
Ambient temperatures should be 78°F (25.5°C) on the cool side and 86°F (30°C) on the warm side. The basking spot over the heat mat on the warm side should be between 88 and 92°F (31-33°C). Temperatures that are too high are more dangerous than temperatures that are too low, but ambient temperature should not fall below 75°F (24°C). Monitor surface temperatures using a temperature gun. This is an essential tool for any reptile keeper.
All heat sources must be regulated by a thermostat. This is how you achieve the temperatures your snake needs and this is not optional. You do not want to melt or burn your enclosure, your furniture, or your snake. A proportional or dimming thermostat is best, but expensive. A simple on/off thermostat is adequate and will not only keep your enclosure at the right temperature range, but also prevent disaster.
Attach thermostat probes directly to the heating element itself, never inside the enclosure as your snake can move the probe. Don't use aluminum tape to attach the thermostat as the conductivity of the aluminum could interfere with the probe. Kapton tape can be used instead. We typically set our thermostats to 90°F (32°C) and adjust from there as necessary.
Whatever you use as substrate for your ball python, it must be able to hold enough humidity to maintain 65% to 75% humidity without molding. Mist your enclosure regularly to maintain humidity. Coconut husk is the ideal bedding for ball pythons. Coco coir also holds ample humidity and has a more natural appearance. In case of coconut allergies, cypress mulch is an acceptable substitute. Even damp paper towel may be used as a substrate.
We use cypress mulch as the substrate for our ball pythons and each snake has a humidity box. We're able to maintain proper humidity levels and everyone sheds beautifully!
Remember that when a ball python sheds it should come off in one piece. You can inspect the shed skin or your animal to ensure that skin is not stuck, especially on the tail and eyes. In case of stuck shed you can soak your ball python in a warm bath and then rub the stuck skin gently to help remove it.
Use a thermometer / hygrometer to monitor ambient temperatures and humidity levels.
When using clear tubs or glass tanks it is essential to provide a hide on both the cool and warm sides of the enclosure. Without a place to hide your ball python will become stressed. Even when using a rack system hides can help your ball python feel more secure.
Artificial plants can provide both enrichment and security for your ball python. This isn't necessary but we use this simple method to provide enrichment for all our ball pythons.
Create a humidity box by choose a food storage container of an appropriate size (you may have one already in your cupboard). Cut a smooth hole in one side and fill with damp sphagnum moss. This will provide both a cold hide and help replicate the humid termite mounds ball pythons spend the majority of their time in in the wild.
You'll want to make sure your snake has access to fresh water every day. Tap water is fine, but must be dechlorinated first. To save time, treat a whole pitcher of water with a reptile water conditioner. Since some snakes love to tip their water dishes, try using a weighted crock dish. A water dish large enough for your ball python to soak is not required if you maintain proper humidity levels.
Be sure to check your snake's enclosure often (especially a few days after meals) to spot-clean any messes. A corner scoop can be very helpful in this. Change soiled bedding as needed. To clean and disinfect your reptile's enclosure, water dish, hides, etc. use a veterinary disinfectant. F10 is preferred by reptile breeders and chlorhexidine is used by veterinarians. You'll want two plastic spray bottles. Fill one with water to mist the enclosure and fill the other with diluted disinfectant.
On this site you'll find links to product suggestions on Amazon, but you may save money elsewhere. Big warehouse stores like Walmart, Target, and Big Lots carry plastic tubs. A dollar store is a great place to find creative, inexpensive solutions for your ball python needs such as humidity boxes, hides, and fake plants. A local hardware or garden shop may provide sphagnum moss, substrate, and other supplies. Be sure that everything you use for your ball python is reptile safe.
Another great resource for low-cost enclosures and supplies is the reptile community. Used enclosures are a fraction of their cost brand-new, and you may be able to find an entire set-up. Try looking on Craigslist, Kijiji, or Facebook Marketplace. As always, be very careful when using these sites and never give out personal information, passwords, or codes.
If you're looking for more husbandry advice or money-saving tips, reach out to us and we'll make sure you have everything you need.
